ACCOMPANIMENTS
WINE AND CHEESE
Taste new sensations with accompaniments that are perhaps surprising but unquestionably sublime.
WINE AND CHEESE
Contrary to popular belief, red wine completely breaks down when accompanied with cheese. The tannin in red wine is definitely hardened by the fat in cheese. In contrast, white wine is a wonderful accompaniment, and this is because it does not contain tannins, and it offers a nice acidity. The mineral composition, a great purveyor of freshness (good acidity), is the reason for this collusion.
The pasture fosters grass that is grown on a particular terroir, according to region and climate. This union between soil and climate which is known as terroir is found in wine. It is easy to see how we consistently find white wines, never far from the pasture.
It is the same foundation – consider that fact and combine the cheese with a local white wine. Examples abound: Munster and Gewurztraminer from Alsace, Comté and the Vin Jaune, and of course Sancerre and its goat cheese Chavignol, or Ossau Iraty and the dry white Jurançon. These are perfect examples of the best accompaniments.
It is the same for cheeses such as Chaource, or Brillat Savarin, which go well with their close neighbours Champagne and Chablis. Therefore I ask you to experience new sensations with accompaniments that are perhaps surprising but unquestionably sublime.
EMMANUEL DELMAS
Sommelier for 15 years, Emmanuel has officiated at some of the most prestigious restaurants in Paris (Guy Savoy, Tour daren’t, Lasers, Déclassé au Plaza Athena, and most recently Fouquet’s), and also abroad, in Switzerland and England. Now wine consultant and trainer Emmanuel Demas crosses vineyards to encounter the highest quality winemakers.
His blog has become a reference over the last 5 years, and helps him to recreate the link between the winegrower and the consumer in making “wine accessible to all.”
ACCOMPANIMENTS WINE AND OUR CHEESES
The firm creamy texture of the cheese flavour reveals a gentle finesse and flourish, which gives a really delicious sensation of lightness.
The accompanying wine must also comply with the very fine contours of this cheese. This accompaniment, in its appearance, and its length on the palate, should ideally be framed by a lovely minerality. Saline, and fresh, it will revive the fine, lingering flavours of the Chaource cheese.
Chablis, with its vivacity and very exquisite minerality and saline (with a base of fossilised oysters and Kimmeridge shale), will overlap through the very fine texture of the Chaource, all while reinforcing the refined flavours of the cheese on the palate. Again, the exchange is remarkable in every respect.
Alternatively, champagne which is still fruity and young. Fresh fruit and sparkling bubbles will also offer beautiful elegance.
This cheese that originates in the Ardennes shows real strength, tinged with freshness, and lingers on the palate. Its texture, although buttery, remains relatively firm.
In order to maintain this delicate texture and flavourful force from Langres, the accompanying wine should be a balance between aromatic elegance and strength. Along with the cheese, this exchange will help exercise all its powers on the palate. And the wine will linger and take over to establish a really positive exchange with the cheese.
Champagne, even better with vintage, and therefore more full-bodied, will meet these requirements. The delicacy and freshness of the bubbles will bring together an aromatic complexity coloured with the strength and passion of this Champagne.
Thereby, the Langres cheese will express its eloquence while accepting the company of a wine, which is certainly surprising, but oh, how precious.Alternatives: Chablis Savennières (Loire), Sancerre, Graves whites (Bordeaux). Red wine: although cheese and red wine are incompatible, you can indulge yourself if you’re a red wine fan, the wine of the region, a Rosé des Riceys, even a Bouzy, are fine and light.
Creamy cheese, full of sweetness, which does not whittle down the very tasty flavours, this cheese requires a charismatic accompaniment.
A sweet and tender white wine, which again, is full of minerality. A play on the power of a terroir, with a vintage (cru) Chablis sounds like a great idea, especially if the wine has had time to mature, it will have gained complexity and strength. This accompaniment offers a superb combination between length and opulence.
Alternatives: Mineral white wines, Chenin Blanc varietals, Marsanne, Petit Manseng (Montlouis, Vouvray, Chinon Blanc, Jurançon, Rhone whites.)
This delicious and creamy, firm textured cheese leaves floral and milky notes. The accompanying wine should, above all, not overpower it with its strength. While young Chablis wines or Champagne are good accompaniments, I really want to be daring with a more nervous wine. The Sauvignon from Saint Bris offers stricter and smoother lines, and refreshing flavours. White fruit and citrus will stimulate the creamy sensations of the cheese, a dash of verve.
Alternatives are Champagne, Chablis, white wines ranging from bold to fresh, particularly young vintages. (Jurançon, Montlouis, etc.)
The texture and mildness of the cheese leaves a lingering taste. Therefore, this cheese will require a reassuring, charismatic accompaniment that is able to bow before a beautiful freshness. This freshness will allow the cheese to express its strength and its character while relaying the message of a well-structured wine – in summary, an iron fist in a velvet glove. This will be the case with vintage Champagne, for example, or even better, a Grand Cru Chablis matured and aged for several years.
The soft, creamy and buttery texture of this cheese is a gourmand’s delight with a white wine that will accentuate its finesse.
For this, you should find a dry white wine, filled out with a nice minerality. It perfectly demonstrates the appearance of an identical cellar or at least similar to that in the Chaource region. Again, the Chablis, of a vintage that is nearing maturity, will meet the requirements.
A rounded, aromatic complexity and verve are all qualities that will highlight the delicacy of this cheese. Ideally: Chablis First Cru, vintage. Bourgogne aligoté, young vintage.
Alternatives: All types of white wines that combine freshness and minerality. Dry Jurançon, white wines from Alsace (Rieslings, Sylvaners).